We arrived in Penneshaw via a wild fifty-minute car ferry ride from Cape Jervis, South Australia.
The decision to camp was not a hard one for us; we had an off-road camper trailer that was itching to leave our driveway. We booked three nights at Murray Lagoon, followed by two nights at Harvey's Return, both in a South Australian National Park on Kangaroo Island. Both sites were secluded and well-treed, just the way we like it.
Ramble time . . .
Once we were situated, it was rambling time! We started with the Timber Creek walk, an easy 1km dirt trail that runs along part of the lagoon and loops back with trees that arch over the path. It was so fascinating that I kept imagining that Alice in Wonderland might come running around the next bend.
Then, we explored Curley Creek, an out-and-back trail near Seal Bay that can be accessed at either end. Late in the day, we enjoyed a 9km ramble around the north end of the lagoon, where the birds were plentiful, and we saw a few kangaroos.
The weather was blowing, but these were quiet, sheltered walks. A special note: there is a resident peacock near this walk and our campsite. He and his two female friends evaded my camera for the entire three days of our stay there.
Play time . . .
We signed up to play in the sand dunes at Little Sahara Adventures, which included an E-bike tour and sandboarding on the dunes. FYI, sandboarding is hard work. Unlike snow skiing, where you take a lift to the top, you must climb the dunes on your own, but that can also be fun and entertaining.
The dunes are worth checking out if you have never experienced them, but they come at a cost. Small dune access is free at Bales Beach around the corner, which we also went to.
We are avid cyclists but had never tried an E-Bike with fat sand tires. The tour included us and the French guide, who was knowledgeable about the Island and wildlife. She taught us a few interesting facts about the area's plants, local bees, and Koala Bears. Plus, riding on the sand was a blast! It made crossing the dunes so much faster!
Eating and drinking, okay, mostly drinking …
We stopped at the Kangaroo Island Brewery for a tasting and a burger, followed by a gin platter at Kangaroo Island Spirits. We then enjoyed some pizza, a visit to a honey store, and then a nap. That was a tough day.
More rambling but multiple short ones . . .
The Island's big draw card is Remarkable Rocks. The Cape du Couedic Lighthouse, the Weir Lookout, and Admirals Arch are nearby. We went on Christmas day, and it was surprisingly busy.
The Arch is a massive opening to the ocean, though, with a view of seals playing on the rocks in the distance.
Seal Bay Conservation Park was close to our first campsite, where you can see seals chilling on the beach. The entrance fee gives access to the lookout above the beach, with an option to upgrade to a tour with a ranger that brings you to the beach and closer to the seals. If you're interested in photography, this option offers much better opportunities for pictures than the lookout.
As a photographer, I would upgrade, but I saw the herd and just wanted to keep my distance. It's interesting how even a small crowd can seem enormous when you have been camping in seclusion.
More rambling . . .
Next, we rambled a path called Harvey's Return—a 9km return walk that passes a unique square lighthouse halfway along. Harvey's Return was more secluded on the West Coast, down a 30km dirt road corrugated in sections, which translates to fewer people. Yay!
It's an easy, level hike but a little overgrown in areas. We got a few scratches on our legs and arms, maybe because I was slowly shedding my layers in the heat.
We saw no other people; it was only us, a few kangaroos, and so many balga grass plants (a native Australian grass with a tall black shoot out the top)!
It is called Harvey's Return because this was the path the lighthouse keepers took to get supplies delivered by boat to the cove ONCE A MONTH!
Access was down a steep rock incline that opened up to a stunning white beach, as seen in the movies. We swam in the blue water while an artist sat on the rocks painting, and a couple fished off the rocks. It was a secluded and peaceful spot.
It was fabulous! This beach was suitable for driving, so lunch was on the beach. A coffee and food van at the beach parking spot satisfied our caffeine craving.
On our final day we discovered Emu Bay as we ventured along the coast. It was fabulous.
I thought five days would be enough, but we could have easily stayed two or three more.
The ferry home was better than the ride-in because you get a better view of Kangaroo Island as you leave. The ferry has no front viewing deck, so you only see the mainland on the way over. On the return trip, we parked ourselves on the rear top deck and watched the Island holiday fade into the distance.
Some final thoughts . . .
I did not want the trip to end, and we had a few days up our sleeve, so we took our time driving home: one secluded campsite close to the beach, one goat farm, and a friend's farm for New Year's. We had an incredible trip, and I can't wait to share more adventures in our camper!
READ MORE > Ramble Logs, Rambler Cafe Blog
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