Joanne Collins is 65. She was born in Toronto, Canada, and currently lives in the township of Magnetawan (population 1,753), located a few hours north of her hometown. She tries to squeeze the great things out of life, and people who know her would not describe her as normal, which is a truth she embraces.
I have spent years traveling with my husband, Dave. We've put many miles on our fifth-wheel camper exploring out-of-the-way state parks in the U.S. and northern Ontario provincial parks in Canada. We always choose remote locations offering the most natural surroundings.
Dave’s heart attack in 2023 led us to embrace a healthier lifestyle, which included increasing our daily exercise routine. This life-changing event also sparked a new hobby for us: hiking. We now seek out destinations with the best hiking trails, and Newfoundland proved to be a Rambler’s paradise. On our 2024 camping trip, spanning mid-August to late September, we hiked over 200 km (125 miles) and were rewarded with spectacular views.
This trip also introduced a new camping style. We aimed to visit areas inaccessible by our luxurious fifth-wheel, so we outfitted ourselves with a truck camper and a small utility trailer for supplies.
We embarked on our 3,000+ km (2,000+ miles) journey to St. John’s, Newfoundland, on a warm August day from central Ontario. Although we had booked sites at some popular parks, like Gros Morne National Park, we were fully prepared to boondock (camp without power or water) in remote locations.
Our adventure took us through northern Quebec, where we briefly stopped to whale-watch in Tadoussac (on the St. Lawrence Seaway), then traversed the rugged Labrador highway—Dave’s idea, not mine!—to Blanc-Sablon, where we took the ferry across the Strait of Belle Isle to Newfoundland.
I’ll spare you the details of the dusty 1,000 km drive through Labrador (again, not my idea), but I will focus on the hikes on the island. Tadoussac was beautiful, offering whale watching from the shore, and we’ll likely return, though perhaps without our dog, Charlie, since many Quebec parks don’t allow pets.
This limited our hiking options, particularly in nearby Saguenay Fjord National Park, where many great trails await. One memorable stop on our journey was at Manicougan Crater in northeastern Quebec. After a long, dusty drive, we swam in the warm, clear waters of this massive lake, which is so large it’s visible from space.
Several days later, we arrived at the coast of Labrador and camped near the Pinware River at a beautiful primitive campground. We visited the historic village of Red Bay, once a major port for Basque whalers, and explored Boney Beach, where you can still see massive whale skulls from the 16th century.
Our first real hike began at Tracy’s Hill, where we climbed 689 steps for a stunning view of Red Bay and the Strait of Belle Isle, a spot where icebergs can be seen in spring and early summer. The Labrador landscape was striking, with its few dwarfed trees and distant, eroded mountains. Bright red partridge berries dotted the treeless land, and the variety of plants and mosses in countless shades of green fascinated me, inspiring my first painting after returning home.
Our first campground on Newfoundland was Pistolet Park, which served as a base for exploring the Great Northern Peninsula. At L’Anse aux Meadows, the northernmost point of the island, we walked through a replica Viking village, marking the arrival of these ancient explorers—our first settlers—to North America.
Everyone warned us about moose while in Newfoundland, with huge signs cautioning us to be careful. However, despite all the warnings, I didn’t spot a single moose during our trip. We even visited Roddickton-Bide Arm, the so-called “Moose Capital of the World,” but still saw none.
Later, a park ranger explained that a culling program had reduced the moose population due to its negative environmental impact. Though disappointing, we understood. On that same trip, we hiked the Daredevil Trail System in St. Anthony, which included a climb up 476 steps. The view from the top was amazing, and the many trails there were well worth the effort.
Gros Morne National Park is a must-visit for hikers. It features fjords, mountains, beaches, forests, cliffs, and waterfalls. We hiked 9 km to the base of Gros Morne Mountain. Although the steep climb was tough on our knees, we enjoyed lunch while watching others scramble up to the peak. The park offers a boat ride through a fjord with a hike at the end, though we missed it since pets weren’t allowed. The Visitor Centre provides a detailed map of all the trails.
Twillingate is an island within an island and was our favorite spot to visit in Newfoundland. It is known as the iceberg capital of the world in late May and early June, so unfortunately, we missed the icebergs. The coastal trails here, including the Rockcut Trail System, were spectacular. On one hike, I spotted an osprey’s nest atop a sea stack, a perfect reference photo for my wildlife art. The trails also offer excellent whale-watching opportunities during migration.
Elliston, on the Bonavista Peninsula, was another highlight. This small town boasts puffins, which had been on my wildlife bucket list. Bring binoculars, as these birds are difficult to spot from a distance. The Skerwink Trail, a 5 km coastal hike with breathtaking views, was another favorite. Newfoundland’s coastal trails are rugged, with loose rock and steep grades, so hiking here may not be suitable for those with mobility challenges.
We typically choose moderate trails with some challenging spots. I also use hiking poles for extra support on rocky descents. One trail we hiked in Spillar’s Cove was the Fox Island Trail, which we found through the AllTrails app. I love this app for its reviews, current trail conditions, and advice from fellow hikers. At one point, I followed Dave up a steep section where ropes were needed to climb. The view from the top was worth it, but the climb wasn’t. Fortunately, the trail can be bypassed.
St. John's
Our final stop was St. John’s, where we walked from Signal Hill to George Street, known for its nightlife and East Coast music. The East Coast Trail has over 300 km of hikes, but we only did a few sections as our trip was nearing its end. September’s weather meant many parks closed early, and with little civilization along the way, we recommend thorough research and possibly arranging a shuttle for longer hikes.
La Manche Provincial Park
Our last campground was La Manche Provincial Park, where we hiked part of the East Coast Trail to an old fishing community, now a ghost town. The La Manche Suspension Bridge trail leads to a beautiful waterfall, making it the perfect final hike in Newfoundland. After leaving the park, we headed to Port-aux-Basques to catch the ferry back to the mainland. Did I mention Newfoundland is an island?
Though our Newfoundland adventure concluded, we still had several weeks of camping and hiking ahead. We explored the Bay of Fundy, with its fabulous trails, and visited Hopewell Rocks, a must-see. We finished our trip with a drive around the Gaspé Peninsula, camping at Forillon Provincial Park. There were many notable hikes here, but I’ll save those for another travel blog!
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