Northern British Columbia 🇨🇦 Naomi Weisman

Naomi Weisman is a Canadian-Australian and mother of three, who loves to Ramble with her dog, cook for family and friends, and laugh whenever possible.

How can a place make you feel so small and fragile, and yet so completely alive at the same time? Out in the wild, I find myself humbled and lifted in equal measure.

I am not religious in the traditional sense, but when I’m surrounded by nature, something deeply spiritual emerges within me. A sudden glimpse of an animal moving gracefully through its own world, or the sight of a full moon glowing as the Northern Lights shimmer in technicolor—these moments move me to tears and remind me of my place in something so much larger.

I’ve always been fascinated by the northern regions of the world, though I’ve only had the chance to visit a few. Several years ago, while traveling with my brother to Haida Gwaii in British Columbia, I was captivated by the way the land wove together so many wonders—Indigenous culture, wild natural beauty, an abundance of wildlife, and that unmistakable northern magic where the sun lingers late into the night and the stars shine like scattered diamonds.

It was during that adventure when the dream of exploring more of Canada’s north truly began to take shape. I had been reading about vast herds of bison, grizzly bears feasting on salmon, and the chance to witness the Northern Lights in all their glory—and slowly, the idea started to take root.

Planning this trip was anything but simple. We had first set our sights on the summer of 2020, but—well, we all know how that year unfolded. So instead, 2025 became the year to finally make it happen. Our hearts were set on the Yukon, but renting an RV there proved nearly impossible due to the lack of supply. The closest option was in Vancouver, and even though I started planning seven months ahead, we still had to reimagine and reshape our entire itinerary.

Traveling in an RV was something I hadn’t done since my early twenties, and the thought of navigating mountain roads behind the wheel of a giant truck didn’t exactly inspire confidence. Before booking the rental, I made sure my brother was on board with doing all the driving—thankfully, he agreed without hesitation.

This was also the first road trip where I turned to ChatGPT for planning help. What a gift that turned out to be! It wasn’t flawless, and there was still plenty of work involved, but it gave me the reassurance I needed that I was choosing the right stops and higher-quality RV campsites.

My list of criteria was: 

• RV rental companies

• The Great Northern Circle Route

• No more than 4 hours of driving per day

• 21-day itinerary

• Wildlife viewing

• Fishing

• No repeated stops

• Include recommended RV sites

Before I get to the itinerary, I will give you a list of things that you must have with you for a trip like this: 

1. Trail shoes or boots – The terrain is uneven, rocky, and full of ups and downs. Comfortable, sturdy footwear is a must.
   

2. Camera (with tripod if possible) – A good camera, or even a phone with a tripod, makes a huge difference. Some of our best wildlife shots were thanks to this setup.
   

3. Walking poles – Not essential for easy trails (rated 1–2), but a big advantage on more challenging terrain. I didn’t bring any and definitely wished I had.
   

4. Rain gear – We were lucky to only have one rainy day, but being prepared ensures you can still enjoy the area in wet weather.
   

5. Binoculars – I can’t tell you how many times I kicked myself for not bringing these!
   

6. Bear safety items – Bear spray, a bear horn, and bear bells. We never had to use them, but they gave us peace of mind on remote trails.
   

7. Laundry and shower supplies – Travel-size detergent, loonies ($1 coins) for RV park machines and showers, and shower shoes.
   

8. Something from home – Stickers or a small sign. Places like Watson Lake’s Signpost Forest (with over 120,000 signs from around the world) are perfect for leaving your mark.

9. A deck of playing cards - We played endless games of Gin and Casino

10. A good day pack

The Itinerary

Vancouver ➜ Hope (2 Hours)

Hope is a small district municipality at the confluence of the Fraser and Coquihalla Rivers in British Columbia. It sits at the eastern edge of the Fraser Valley and Lower Mainland, and marks the southern end of the dramatic Fraser Canyon.

After our five-hour flight from Toronto, Hope made the perfect first stop—just a two-hour drive from Vancouver and a restful place to ease into the trip. We stayed at the Coquihalla Campground, an ideal base for exploring the area.

Highlights included hiking along the river and through the historic Othello Railway Tunnels, where the canyon views were simply spectacular. The tunnels, carved through solid granite in the early 1900s as part of the Kettle Valley Railway, are now a fascinating reminder of both engineering ingenuity and the challenges of building a railway through such rugged terrain.

The rushing Coquihalla River and steep canyon walls made the walk feel both dramatic and peaceful.

Hope is also known as the “Chainsaw Carving Capital of Canada,” with dozens of intricate wooden sculptures scattered throughout town, adding an unexpected artistic charm to this mountain gateway.

Hope ➜ 100 Mile House and the Cariboo Lakes (3.5 Hours)

From Hope, we continued north along the Cariboo Highway to 100 Mile House, a small district municipality in the South Cariboo region of central British Columbia. Once a key stopping point along the Cariboo Wagon Road during the Gold Rush era, today it serves as a gateway to the region’s many lakes and outdoor adventures.

The drive itself was a highlight. After leaving the lush Fraser Valley, the landscape quickly shifted into a surprisingly desert-like region around Cache Creek and Clinton. Dry hillsides, sagebrush, and rocky cliffs replaced the forests, and we even spotted herds of bighorn sheep navigating the rugged terrain. The sudden change in climate and scenery made it feel like we had entered a different world.

When we arrived, we stayed at the Cariboo Bonanza Resort on Horse Lake, which felt like a five-star RV park with everything we could possibly need. It was the perfect place to slow down, so we stayed for two days to soak in the beauty of the lake.

We rented kayaks and a small fishing boat, spending our time paddling across the calm water and taking in the scenery. Wildlife was everywhere—osprey and bald eagles soared overhead, and one afternoon we even spotted a black bear wandering along the shore.

100 Mile House ➜ Prince George (3.5 Hours)

From the Cariboo Lakes, we made our way north to Prince George, known as the gateway to Northern British Columbia. Instead of staying in the city itself, our RV site (Westlake Campground) was about 25 km outside, which suited us perfectly—we were here to explore the remarkable Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Park, located 120 km east of Prince George along Highway 16.

This protected area lies within the traditional territory of the Lheidli T’enneh First Nation and preserves a portion of the world’s only inland temperate rainforest. Walking the Ancient Forest trail feels like stepping back in time: thousand-year-old western red cedars tower overhead, their roots draped in moss and surrounded by a rich tapestry of ferns, lichens, and fungi.

The park is thoughtfully designed to be accessible. A 450-metre universal boardwalk allows visitors of all abilities to experience the magic of this forest, while an additional 2.3 km of boardwalk leads deeper in, guiding you to wonders like the massive “Big Tree,” the whimsical “Tree Beard,” the Radies Tree, and a cascading waterfall tucked among the greenery.

Standing among these giants, it’s impossible not to feel humbled. The Ancient Forest is one of Northern BC’s hidden treasures—astonishingly easy to access, yet still wild and untouched enough to inspire awe at every turn.

The rest of our time in the area was spent stocking up on supplies, since Prince George has everything you need to prepare for the more remote stretches of the Alaska Highway.

Pro Tip: Stay out of downtown Prince George. Unfortunately, it has been heavily impacted by fentanyl use, and we found it felt unwelcoming, unsafe, and very sad to see.

Prince George ➜ Fort St. John (4 Hours)

The drive from Prince George to Fort St. John was a fascinating one. We hadn’t realized how extensive the oil and gas industry is in northern British Columbia—I had always pictured that as Alberta’s domain. Along the route, the industrial presence becomes unmistakable, with pipelines, equipment, and work camps dotting the landscape.

Fort St. John itself is often considered more of a practical stop than a destination—it’s a place to rest after the drive, refuel, and stock up on supplies before heading into the more remote stretches of the north. One night here is plenty. 

This stop, however, came with a memorable highlight: we made a detour to Dawson Creek, the official starting point of the legendary Alaska Highway. Standing beneath the iconic “Mile 0” sign and snapping photos felt like a rite of passage—the symbolic beginning of the northern adventure we’d been building toward.

Fort St. John ➜ Fort Nelson (3.5 Hours)

The drive from Fort St. John to Fort Nelson is one of the most scenic stretches of the journey, offering sweeping views of wilderness and the Northern Rockies. Along the way, highlights include Summit Lake in Stone Mountain Provincial Park, a pristine alpine lake surrounded by rugged peaks, and the chance to spot wildlife such as caribou, moose, and bears. The route winds through mountains, rivers, and broad valleys, giving you a real sense of the vastness of northern British Columbia.

Unfortunately, during our drive the skies were thick with smoke from distant wildfires, which obscured many of the dramatic views of the Rockies. Even so, the sense of wilderness and remoteness was undeniable.

In Fort Nelson, we stayed overnight at the Triple G Hideaway RV Park, located just outside of town. It was a solid choice—well-run, with the bonus of a small restaurant and even a quirky little heritage museum on site. For most travelers, one night here is plenty before continuing north.

Fort Nelson ➜ Muncho Lake Provincial Park (4 hours)

The drive to Muncho Lake is beyond simple beauty—there’s a true majesty around every turn, ascent, and descent. This stretch of the Alaska Highway feels wonderfully remote, with few cars or people in sight. The possibility of spotting wildlife keeps you alert, eyes scanning the treeline for movement.

It was along this route that we saw our first black bears—mamas with their cubs grazing at the roadside before disappearing quietly into the forest. Later, we caught sight of a timber wolf, calm and unhurried, gazing out over the grass as if taking in the same vastness we were.

As we neared our destination, excitement started bubbling up from my stomach, my heart beating a little faster with every curve in the road. I’d read so much about the beauty of Muncho Lake, and each twist brought the anticipation of my first glimpse of those famed bright-blue glacial waters.

We stayed at the spectacular Northern Rockies Lodge, a Swiss-owned resort that combines lakeside RV sites, cozy cabins, and a hotel. The property has a restaurant serving breakfast, take-out, and a lovely three-course dinner each evening. Guests can rent kayaks or fishing boats, and for those craving adventure, there are even floatplane excursions deep into the Northern Rockies interior.

The trails along this stretch of the highway are well marked—some easy strolls, others more demanding. Our first day of hiking took us along a rocky but fairly flat path, utterly quiet and empty except for the two of us.

With bear spray in hand, we set off, the silence amplifying every rustle in the trees. The deeper we went, the more aware I became of our isolation—surrounded by dense forest and canyon walls, feeling both exposed and exhilarated.That’s the thing about hiking in the remote north of British Columbia: a part of you always stays a little on edge.

About three kilometres in, my brother suddenly pointed ahead. In the distance, a large pair of antlers emerged from the trees. We froze, watching in awe as a magnificent caribou and his companion slowly made their way toward us. Standing there in that rocky canyon, sharing space with these wild, graceful beings—it took my breath away.

The next few days were filled with adventure. We spent 3 hours kayaking on the glassy turquoise waters of Muncho Lake, the surface so calm it mirrored the surrounding mountains perfectly. There’s something about paddling across that kind of stillness—just the sound of the paddle dipping into the water and the occasional call of a loon—It felt like we were inside a painting.

Later, we hiked the Mineral Lick Trail, a designated 1.3 km loop that leads to stunning viewpoints overlooking the Trout River and the mineral-laden cliffs below. The exposed rock and soil here are rich in natural deposits of sodium, calcium, and magnesium, which draw moose, caribou, and other wildlife to lick the surface for essential nutrients. Standing at the viewpoint, it was easy to understand why this place is so special—raw, wild, and quietly alive with unseen activity.

One of the highlights of our stay was a floatplane excursion to Netson Lake, a pristine, remote lake deep within the Northern Rockies. As we soared over endless ridges and glacial valleys, I was struck by the vastness of it all—no roads, no people, just untouched wilderness stretching as far as the eye could see. The pilot gently landed on the lake, and for a few moments, the world was utterly still. 

We also made the trip to Liard River Hot Springs, a natural wonder tucked within lush boreal forest. The warm, mineral-rich waters steam gently in the cool air, surrounded by ferns and towering spruce. Soaking there after days of hiking and exploring felt almost sacred—a perfect blend of adventure and serenity, the north revealing its softer side.

Pro Tip: Plan to spend at least 2 full days in Muncho Provincial Park. We stayed for 4 nights and are so happy we did! 

Muncho Lake ➜ Watson Lake (4 hours)

Originally, I had hoped to spend much more time exploring the Yukon, but it just wasn’t meant to be on this trip. Still, we made the most of our single day there—and what a memorable day it turned out to be. On the way, we saw several herds of Bison, often requiring us to stop and wait while huge males blocked the road so their families could cross.

Watson Lake is the official gateway to the Yukon along the Alaska Highway. It’s a practical stop to refuel, restock supplies, and stretch your legs—but it’s best known for its wonderfully quirky Sign Post Forest. Travelers from all over the world have left their mark here, hanging signs with their hometowns and names in a sprawling maze that seems to go on forever. It’s truly mind-boggling how many there are, each one telling its own little story of someone passing through.

Pro Tip: Bring a sign from home—we didn’t, and we regretted it!

While in town, we also visited the Northern Lights Space and Science Centre, where we watched two fascinating short films that explored both the science and the folklore of the Aurora Borealis. Afterward, I asked the woman working there if there was any chance of seeing the lights that night. Her face lit up as she said, “Yes—between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m.”

So later that night, we set our alarm, bundled up, and drove out to a nearby lake around midnight. And there they were—the Northern Lights, dancing across the sky in shifting ribbons of green and violet, while a full moon glowed softly above the horizon. It was pure magic—one of those moments that takes your breath away and stays with you forever.

Stewart / Hyder

Stewart is a small, wonderfully remote town tucked right up against the border with Hyder, Alaska. The drive from Watson Lake takes about eight hours, and trust me—you’ll want to break it up. The Cassiar Highway (37) is long, winding, and demands constant focus, with wildlife appearing unexpectedly along the roadside. By the time we arrived, we were both exhilarated and completely spent.

This was one of the stops I had been dreaming about for years. Ever since I first saw footage of grizzly bears fishing for salmon during spawning season, it’s been at the top of my bucket list—and here we were, about to experience it in person. Add to that the chance to drive to both Salmon Glacier and Bear Glacier, and I could hardly contain my excitement.

We stayed at the Bear River RV Park, which I highly recommend. It’s well-maintained, beautifully located, and run by a lovely couple who take great pride in their property. The park has everything you’ll need, and it’s only a short walk to several scenic spots around town, including trails along the Bear River and through the estuary. Stewart itself is small but charming, with a grocery store, a few shops, and a couple of restaurants—enough to make it comfortable without losing its wild northern feel.

Pro Tip: Bring your passport! You’ll need it to visit both the Salmon Glacier and the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site, as both are accessed by driving through Hyder, Alaska.

The best time to see grizzlies fishing for salmon at Fish Creek Observation Site is July through September. We arrived in the second week of September, worried we might have missed the action.

On our first day, we didn’t spot any bears, but the weather was spectacular, and the Salmon Glacier more than made up for it. The contrast of the brilliant blue sky against the vast white ice was breathtaking—a landscape that humbles you instantly.

The next day was our final chance. We visited the observation site three times—and struck gold twice. Two massive male grizzlies, at different times, appeared along the river, feasting on salmon.

The Fish Creek viewing platform is built right at the water’s edge, offering a remarkably close yet safe vantage point. We could hear the bears chewing, snuffling, and tearing into their catch—an unforgettable, almost primal experience that left us awestruck.

If you’re planning your own journey, I can’t recommend this stop enough. Two days is sufficient to see the highlights, but three would give you time to soak it all in without rushing. Hyder itself is a quirky, weathered little outpost—almost ghostly in its quiet charm—with very few services. Most residents cross the border into Stewart for their daily errands.

And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can always get “Hyderized”—a local tradition involving a shot of pure alcohol at one of the tiny bars. It’s not for everyone, but it’s certainly a story to tell later! My advice, though: stay in Stewart and enjoy the best of both worlds—Canadian comfort and Alaskan wildness, just a few minutes apart.

Stewart ➜ Vancouver

The long journey back to Vancouver unfolded over several days, with a few one-night stops along the way. Each had its own charm and story, turning what could have been a simple return trip into a string of memorable moments.

Our first notable stop was the ’Ksan Historical Village, located near the town of Hazelton. ’Ksan is a living museum of the Gitxsan Nation, beautifully situated where the Bulkley and Skeena Rivers meet in northwestern British Columbia. The site features several traditional longhouses, each designed to reflect its original function in Gitxsan daily life and culture.

We were fortunate to have a private tour led by two young community members, whose knowledge and pride in their heritage made the experience even more meaningful. It’s a fascinating and deeply respectful place to visit—and there’s even a free RV parking area on the property. That night, we stayed at Witset RV Park, perched right on the river with absolutely stunning views. It’s a quiet, scenic spot I’d highly recommend.

Heading south, after staying overnight in Quesnel, we joined Highway 99, a spectacular route winding through rugged mountain scenery. We spent the night at Fraser Cove RV Park, located across the river from Lillooet. The campground sits right on the banks of the Fraser River, with a beautiful pedestrian bridge connecting to town. From that bridge, we watched a First Nations woman fishing in the traditional way—methodical, graceful, and powerful. It was mesmerizing, one of those quiet travel moments that stays with you.

The drive from Lillooet to Whistler along Highway 99 is one of the most breathtaking stretches of road in British Columbia. Kilometer after kilometer, the views unfold in a spectacular display of mountain peaks, river valleys, and deep forest—each turn revealing another postcard-perfect scene. It’s a drive that deserves to be savored, not rushed.

Whistler

Our final stop before returning the RV and flying home was Whistler. We stayed about ten kilometres outside of town at Whistler Park RV, which turned out to be an excellent choice—well equipped, beautifully maintained, and surrounded by trails and recreation areas with incredible views of the Coastal Mountains.

I hadn’t been to Whistler in several years, and I was amazed by how much it’s grown. The village truly has something for everyone—outdoor adventure, great food, art, shopping, and plenty of lively energy. For us, the highlight was reconnecting with one of my dearest friends (and fellow Sole Sister Rambler) who lives there. Spending time with her and her family was the perfect way to unwind after so many days on the road.

On a gorgeous sunny day, we decided to take the gondola up to the top of Blackcomb Mountain, and it was worth every penny. The views from the summit were absolutely spectacular—endless ridges, valleys, and the village far below, looking like something out of a storybook.

As an added treat, we spotted several marmots scurrying about near the trails—the very animals that gave Whistler Mountain its name with their funny little whistle. It was a perfect ending to a journey filled with wild beauty, adventure, and unforgettable moments.

As our journey came to an end, I found myself thinking back to what first inspired it—the desire to feel small and alive all at once, to stand in places where nature humbles and restores in equal measure.

Traveling through the wild northern stretches of Canada gave me exactly that. From the quiet majesty of Muncho Lake to the raw power of grizzlies in Hyder and the peaceful stillness of the forests and rivers along the way, I was reminded again and again of how fragile and miraculous life feels when you’re surrounded by such beauty.

Out there—in the shimmering light of the aurora, the reflection of mountains on a glassy lake, and the echo of a loon calling through the mist—I felt something deeply moving. It was as though the land itself was whispering, reminding me to be present, to breathe, and to be grateful.

*Photo Credits: Paul Davidson and Naomi Weisman

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